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Keeping it classic: Morning suit etiquette, style & fit with Suit Direct

03rd February 2020 | Rachel Hirst

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Depending on the style and location of wedding, there is still very much call for the classics when it comes to grooms wear; be it a tux, a tailcoat… or as we’re discussing on the blog today, a timeless morning suit.

Dapper not dated, this fine formalwear is super fitting for a traditional church ceremony followed by stately home reception, emitting romance, style and sophistication.

And while groomsmen can play it safe with plain fabrics in classic colourways, the modest morning suit can be instantly updated through more contemporary silhouettes, texture options and accessories.

David Beckham may have also helped boost the morning suits revival after scoring high in the style ranks at Harry and Meghan’s royal wedding back in 2018, when he wore a slim fitting style teamed with a contrasting dove grey waistcoat and silk tie – just dreamy!

And so, if your partner is considering a wholly traditional look, or is keen to put a modern spin on a true classic – whether for your own wedding or that of a relative’s or friend’s – we’re working in collaboration with one of the fastest growing suit retailers in the UK, Suit Direct, to deliver all the details you need to know on morning suit etiquette, style and fit.

Images provided by Suit Direct.

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Suit direct say: Sometimes referred to as formal day dress, the classic morning suit usually consists of a coat, waistcoat and trouser.

Traditionally, the morning suit should not be worn at any event that begins after 6pm and is usually only spotted at grand, stately occasions. However, in recent years, the style has become an increasingly common sight at race days and weddings, and particularly church ceremonies, where it can be seen alongside other classic staples like the tweed suit or three-piece suit.

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So, what’s the key to striking the right impression where the invitation dictates morning suits for the men?

Like any suit, getting the right fit is of the utmost importance and in particular the coat, styled similarly to the classic overcoat, should neatly fit to the body, without drooping or running too long.

For those unsure of fit, or who are planning on getting adjustments made, first ensure that the shoulders fit correctly. While other elements of a jacket are relatively easy to adjust, it can be difficult, or even impossible, to change the way the shoulders fit.

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Once the jacket has been selected, the remaining elements are much easier to nail down. The silhouette of the coat, in profile, should form a loose ‘S’ shape rather than appear as a straight-edged box.

In terms of colour, it’s often tempting to play it safe and go for a classic, plain black fabric, and this is perfectly acceptable, but a grey, or even a darker brown, can add extra interest and personality to a look and allow you to better match the theme of the wedding.

For the trouser, make sure the leg stops above the shoe and that the waistline sits high. Another way to tell if the fit is just right is by considering where the tail of the coat hangs. Traditionally, this should sit just below the back of the knee, but this tends to hang higher in more modern looks.

In terms of accessories, there is some overlap between the morning suit and classic wedding suit, and whether or not to add a pocket square should depend on the flower buttonhole. If a flower isn’t being worn, or if it’s relatively small, then a pocket square can certainly add depth or a splash of colour to a look.

And remember, a bespoke morning suit can take up to four months, and numerous fittings, to properly manufacture, so consider options on traditional men’s suit stores and websites first.

As the morning suit grows in popularity, and is seen at more events, there’s a much bigger range available now than ever before, so gents are sure to find a style fitting to the occasion.

Check out this guide for further inspiration on wedding suit trends for 2020.

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